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Jean-Paul Gaultier – beauty backstage Fall 2019 Haute Couture
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Maison Rabih Kayrouz – beauty runway Fall 2019 Haute Couture
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Imaginative Realms reign over Parisian catwalks
Firstly flattered, then brought into being, imaginative and fantastic realities are worlds Couture explores and shapes masterfully with its skilful hands. High tailoring clothing uses the most fervent imagination and creativity to take us to different brain dimensions, and in this whole, makeup, jewelry and hairstyle play a relevant role for a clear conveyance of the message.
Esotic and fantastic worlds were the setting of the latest Paris Couture Week for Fall 2019, where women acquired the appearance of mythological goddesses, Asian princesses or Victorian dark widows. Let’s explore the most interesting beauty moments from Parisian catwalks!
Fluid, weigthless impalpable surfaces of evanescent marine hues made Azzaro‘s collection, subtly unveiling the woman’s body; translucent effects collided with the hardness of crystals that sparkled and lavished more structured and architectural volumes. Makeup and accessories reflected this dual aspect: the middle-parting hair was loose or slicked back to let the single earring – oversize and crystal-embellished- do the talking, while a soft touch of blush on the cheeks and bright brown eyeshadow confered a refined and ethereal look.
A signature goddess -of a fantasized realm- look was also that of Elie Saab‘s woman. This time it seems the Lebanese designer looked to China, or Asia more broadly, for inspiration. A regal aspect was the result, recalling East Asia’s rich culture through jewel-adorned velvets and satins, wrapping volumes similiar to kimonos, tightened at waistline by the obi, and lavish embroideries suggesting abstract flora and fauna. Hair and makeup played up a more cliché look: a sharp-winged eye was created with the eyeshadow (here no eyeliner was required), using brown for both top and bottom eyelids, while lip gloss was applied on the models’ lips.
Givenchy‘s natural makeup was counterbalanced by extreme hairstyles and huge jewel earrings. The aerodynamic hair defying gravity was courtesy of Redken global creative director Guido Palau, who conceived it as a reproduction of a bird’s wings in flight, blowing upwards in some areas and giving it a punkish feel, alongside the edgy ponytails.
In Guo Pei‘s show, theatrical and surreal makeup and hair took center stage in a collection profused with embellishments. Here, the “Alternate Universe” the Chinese designer wanted to reproduce winked to Neil Gaiman’s mythology in which goddesses of all ethos mingle among mortals. Created by Cristian Pignatta, birdcages were woven through hair and almost floor-lengthed extentions were added to hair for Rapunzel braids. The makeup was instead created by makeup artist Debbie Finnegan, who wanted to convey a sense of – beautiful – decay through hand paint colorful designs all over the face.
Jean-Paul Gaultier opted for metallic, glitter eyelids, realized by makeup artist Erin Parsons in a dual chromatism. An electric, intense result was reached through sparkles in different shades applied in a cat-eye shape. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert created instead an 80’s look through volumized sky-high ponytails.
Julien Fournié added a dark imprint to his brand’s style at his Couture Fall 2019 show, through a Victorian-gothic allure: black winged eyeliner and dark shading effects intensify the gaze, also highlighted by the bright complexion.
The Lebanese designer Rabih Kayrouz also chose a makeup in the shades of black, conferring the models an odd look through the excessively thin-outlined brows.
Smokey eyes were also on Steven Khalil‘s and Ulyana Sergeenko‘s catwalks, that highlighted instead a cheeky and daring femininity.
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