De-constructed stereotypes: Vetements Fall 2017 Paris

We all know that Demna Gvasalia is the founder of the disruptive brand Vetements and we all know that the label has a young and (luxurious) streetwear-ish nature. In the last years he has been able to transform hoodies, raincoats, bomber jackets from common pieces of clothing into something more creative (and more expensive). So when he presented his menswear/womenswear Fall 2017 collection at Centre Pompidou during Haute Couture week in Paris everyone got confused (actually not so much, we’re still talking about Vetements, but still). The club cool kids, members of his artistic team, were there on the runway but with them models of different generations, genders and physiques, people from the street. We saw hoodies, bomber and leather jackets but also fur coats, suits, office-wear and even a bridal dress. What he did, as confirmed by the designer himself, was a anthropological exercise on stereotypical characters. The police woman, the gypsy, the punk, the Milanesa and so on, have been presented in their unique de-constructed uniforms. The supposed lack in cohesion of the collection turned out to be a meditation on archetypes, variety of types of people and how clothes construct identity. This diversity is what makes fashion an extraordinary industry.

All the looks from the collection

Matteo Bengala

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