John Galliano presents his first FW18 menswear collection chez Margiela
“Dressing in haste” is the basic notion of the first John Galliano‘s menswear collection for Margiela. What he is proposing is a new glamour for menswear clothing, that focuses primarily on coats and suiting transformation.
There are plenty of ideas he’s been working at in the womenswear collections over the last seasons. One example is the filleted garments structure: the coats are reduced to raw-cut leftovers that are willing to be covered by new upholstery, conveying the idea of deconstruction and incompleteness. The sweaters suffered the same treatments: they’re empty volumes with bold, ribbed hems.
Double jackets are an iterated feature: a giant yellow puffer jacket is covered by a stripped shearling edging.
The fastening of a black coat is not central, yet the buttons are spread from the shoulder down.
An impeccable blue tailored suit has a standard silhouette that is referring to the Savile Row sensibility; the bias cut – that generates a fluid effect – hides instead a subversive attitude.
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