Alessandro Michele’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection
The disciplinary power challenges to impose a precise identity on the subject; yet it is not a natural process, neither it can be imposed through violence. Identity is a social and cultural construction: that’s how binary fixed categories are established – as the normal and abnormal -, and they are made to look so appealing that the subject voluntarily claims his belonging to a given social structure. Therefore, the concept of identity is a device of bio-political control. (M. Foucault).
The relationship between being and becoming was the inspiration source for conceiving Cyborg. “We are the Dr. Frankenstein of our lives.”, Alessandro Michele affirmed, talking about the self-creation and re-construction of one’s own identity.
The Fall/Winter 2018 collection assumes the shape of a genuine Cyborg Manifesto (D. J. Haraway), in which the dualism and the fragmentation of identity can be overcome by the hybrid creature. The Cyborg is indeed a figure that blends paradoxical features and evolving identities, shying away from given categories: masculine and feminine, normal and alien, psyche and matter.
A weird and creepy pristine operating room, all surgical green, with white lights was the fashion show setting. It represented the Alessandro Michele’s job in his mind: like a surgeon, he’s “cutting, assembling, experimenting on the operating table”. Some models are carrying their own heads underarm as an accessory, representing the struggle while trying to construct one’s own personality and to nourish the minds deeply.
The hybrids make the cross-cultural collection, that mixes references from fantasy, biblical and real contexts. Moving ethically and politically at the same time, the Gucci’s pluriverse is an invitation to diverge and avoid a unique identity model. What looks atypical, anomalous, flawed to a normalizing eye, acquires a new legitimacy: it’s the courageous affirmation of the self and its singularity.
Gucci‘s hybrid is post-human: it is biologically indefinite, it has eyes on the forehead, faun horns, dragon’s puppies and double heads. Yet it is a creature culturally aware of its constant metamorphosis that is shaped by its own will and choices.
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